Here comes one other diary entry in my journey towards spirituality. Though spirituality is a journey-inside rather outside, temples, in my view, aid the seeker stay on his path. Keeping aside the spiritual aspects of any temple, their architectural beauty never failed to amaze me. I haven't come across any temples recently built that has such architectural beauty of the temples built several hundred years ago. This amazement along with a pint of spirituality always pushes me to visit temples. One such opportunity was presented when MSK (alias Karthik Shankara :)) called me a few weeks back and asked if I could join with him for a Tour-de-Tamilnadu, covering major temples for two weeks. Though two weeks absconding was pretty big, I was still lucky enough to secure the leaves officially. But when the travel dates were nearing, the plans went in for a major change. Two weeks changed to one week and a structured travel itinerary changed to an open-adhoc-trip.
Since the tour call was from MSK, I was open till the last minute for a concrete plan proposal from MSK. Just a day before the travel, MSK confirmed the tentative plan was "Only we both travelling. Where to go, we will decide at CMBT bus stand". Well, atleast he had a plan till CMBT bus stand.
So, on 4th of November, with a travel budget and dress packed to sustain for four days, we met at 10am near Ambattur OT bus stand. An hour of travel, we reached CMBT. Till that time we seriously don't know where to go. Just because the leaves have been sanctioned and dress is packed, we are travelling. One thing common for both of us is that we haven't visited Rameshwaram till then. So that became our target. But unfortunately there were no morning buses for Rameshwaram from CMBT. So we decided to go to Madurai and take a bus from there. Just then a Madurai bus was moving from the bay, and we stepped-in to start our journey.
Since the destination was finalized, we took a nap, and the bus stopped for lunch in a motel. I was damn hungry and MSK just woke up from his sleep. I wanted to avoid non-veg during spiritual trip, but still my mind was saying "Egg Briyani". I asked MSK if he will take egg and he nodded his head. After finishing the lunch with two eggs, MSK lately realized that he ate E-G-G. For the next part of travel, he was blaming me for waking him up in middle of his sleep, and made him eat Egg before he came into his senses and realize that he was eating egg :(
Well, after an argument on egg is veg or non-veg, MSK is now pure or impure, we did note that we reached Trichy. It was around 4.00pm or so. All of sudden, we realized that we (atleast I) havent visited Srirangam yet. During many trips to Sathuragiri, I happened to pass through Srirangam, but never had chance to visit the temple once. So, now is the chance, and change of plan. We stepped down at Trichy to see Ranganathar.
In the bus stand an auto-wala asked 120/- to go till temple, but we thought that's too much. People around said that the temple is just 2kms away, and MSK opted for a walk, though I was against walking at that time. I was okay for any other conveyance other than walk, but, after arguments, MSK won. We started walking over the 1km long bridge built over the Kollidam River. Initially we thought it was Cauvery, but then heard that it was branch of Cauvery named as Kollidam (Remember Ponniyin Selvan). On the way across the bridge, we saw few kids and adults bathing in the river joyfully. Since we had time, we too decided to take a bath in the river. Atleast the EGG eating sin of MSK will be cleared before entering the temple. It was very joyful to bath in river. The river was not that big and fierce as that of main Cauvery, but still it gave the feel of bathing in a river. After a successful dip, we thought of walking towards the temple and shocked to see a sign-board saying the temple is still 3.5kms away. Luckily, an auto passed that way and he agreed to drop us in temple for 40/- Rs.
We secured our bags in the cloak room and entered the temple around 6.00pm, but the darshan was closed then. It will be open only by 7.15 and there was already a long queue waiting. We spent some 30mins visiting other shrines around the temple and joined the queue at 7. Doors opened at 7.15, but it took almost 1.5hrs for the queue to move and see the darshan. Finally we entered in the sanctum. Oh.. Ranganathar was beautiful and peacefully sleeping inside the shrine. In just few seconds, it was tough to get a good view of such a big deity in a dull lamp-light. However, the glittering gold clad on his feet and the crown on his head marked the start and end keyframes for my eyes to take a snap. After darshan, its dinner time. A good bath in the river made us even more hungry. The smell of Puliyodharai, Curd rice and Sakkarai pongal was adding fuel to stomach fire. Instead of having it as Prasadam, we had all of them as dinner. Curd-rice and Tamarind-rice, heavenly and tasty.
That night we decided to check-in at some lodge in Trichy and visit Thiruvaanaikkaval temple the next day morning, since its just one kilometer from Srirangam and I dont want to miss it. After checking-in, MSK opted for a walk and purchase some bananas. It was 9.45 then, and while we were walking down the street, we saw posters of Ajith all-around. We were just saying "what if there is a theater right opposite, and tickets are available for night show".. Believe it or not, there was a theater right opposite us. We really didnt expect it. In matter of few minutes, we got two tickets for Aarambam movie, night show. That was completely unexpected, so we went again to hotel (few buildings away) to inform him that we will return late after watching the movie. Though it was night show, the theater was jam packed with family audience and equal number of Thala fans, who removed their shirts and started swirling and dancing soon as the movie started. It was a fantastic experience for such moderate movie. Nevertheless, Ajith has rocking screen presence. 
By midnight we returned back with an action item to wake up by 6.00 and visit the next temple. As usual, it was around 8am we woke up. :) Got a local bus to transit till temple. Thiruvaanaikkaval was one of the Pancha-Boodha sthalams, representing Water. Except this, I have been to all other four, and by this trip got the chance to complete the fifth. Temple was not that crowded, and we could see Jambukeswarar in all his glory behind a stone window. But that wasnt enough for me, so we purchased special darshan ticket (10/-) with which we can go behind the window, and stand just two to three free away from the deity. The Lingam was not big and structured, but the garbagraham was dripping wet throughout. Legend says that there is a fresh water spring beneath the Shiva Lingam. Also the entrance to the temple is built small such that an elephant cannot enter in the shrine. Why should a entrance be designed in a way to restrict an elephant? There is a story behind it. Long back an elephant and a spider worshipped this Shiva Lingam. The spider used to weave its web on top of lingam and the elephant always removed the web to keep the shrine clean. In subsequent birth, the spider was born as a king and he constructed this temple, but designed the entrance to the Garba-graha so small that elephants can never enter the sanctum. Revenge. :)
The temple was really big with five Prakarams. Sree Akilandeswari was the sakthi there, and she was beautiful as ever. Sree Adi Shankara is said to have visited this shrine and has done the Thadanga (Ear Rings) Pratishta for the goddess to ensure that she remains in a Sowmya Roopa.
With Trichy done, we decided to move towards our destination, but then MSK proposed a plan to visit Thenkasi, Kutrallam, Thirunelveli and then proceed to Rameshwaram. After breakfast, we took a Madurai bus and then travelled towards Tenkasi. By the time we were nearing Tenkasi, it was almost 7.30pm and we were praying that temple should not be closed. 8pm is the temple closing time. By 7.30 we got down the bus stand and inquired the way to temple. One autowala accepted to take us to the temple and charged 50/- for few kilometers of travel. It was 7.45 we reached and the temple was good and open. Shutdown formalities haven't started by then. Till the last minute we had no hope that we will get a darshan, but it was great. Since there were only a very few people, we could get a good darshan of Kashi Viswanathar and Ulagamman. The temple Gopuram was beautiful and damn big. I think its the second highest gopuram in Tamilnadu next to Srivilliputhur.
After darshan, we immediately started our way back to Tirunelveli for an overnight stay. Its one hour travel from Tenkasi to Tirunelveli. Apart from Nellaiappar, Tirunelveli is world famous for its one thing, the Alwa. Since wikipedia said that the alwa shop will close by 10pm, we were again praying to reach there before the shop closed. By 9.30 we reached new bus stand, and to our surprise, there were atleast a dozen on Shanthi Sweets selling Alwa. Then we queried a localite on which is real Shanthi sweets and he said that it was at the old bus terminus. We then proceeded to old bus terminus, and to our surprise there are dozen other Shanthi Sweets there. A localite then said "Note the shop which has more customers purchasing halwa. That is the original".. And then we spotted a small shop with few customers. Confirmed with localites again, and then purchased the original Thirunelveli Alwa. Shameless other shopkeepers.. They just use the same board color, font and logo of the genuine store and having stalls in the same street itself. Right now, while typing this blog, a spoonful of halwa just melted in my mouth.. Wah.. that smell and taste of ghee, sugar, and Thamiraparani water.. feels heavenly..
After halwa shopping, its dinner time. We checked-in a room nearby and went to a kaiyendhi bhavan (roadside shop). MSK wanted to eat very less, while I had no restrictions. Idly's were sooo tasty and hot, that I ended up with 10 Idlies, 1 One-side and 1-Half-boil, whereas Mr.Eat-Less ended with 6 Idlies, 1 One-side and 2 Half-boils. I was almost done when he was ordering "One more half-boil". Just for eating two egg during the start of journey he was blaming on me like anything, and now he consciously ended with 3 eggs. But seriously, the taste was excellent and supported by 4 chutneys, ellu podi (sesame powder) and hot saambar, we couldn't control.
Then MSK said that he wanted to be in Chennai by Thursday morning itself, so we had a change in plan. We cut down the Kutralam plans and headed to Nellaippar temple the next morning by 7.00am. What a big temple it was. A localite said the temple is around 16 acres, and much bigger than Madurai temple (14 acres). Near the main shrine we had this Musical pillars. When hit, each pillar will produce different sound, though its just rock. Lookwise, all pillars will look same, but really wonder how they produce different sound. My guess is that the inside of the pillar could have been drilled for varying sizes. Whatever, its really amazing. Inside the shrine was Nellaiappar, and is a Suyambu lingam (self-formed), and hence the lingam is not structured and elliptical like other lingams. Its just a raw consecrated rock resembling a lingam. Even in Sathuragiri, the Santhana Mahalingam will be like this one. Here, I was a little disappointed to see that there wasnt even a garland on the lingam by that time (it was almost 8am). Only a small Vilva maalai or something was there. So we went out and purchased a couple of garlands as offering. Only after seeing the priest putting our garland to the Shiva Lingam, I felt a little satisfied. Such a spiritually rich temple, and the poojari have no sense of what they are dealing with. They should visit Isha Ashram, specially Linga bhairavi shrine once to see what devotion means. After Nellaiappar, we visited Gandhimadhi Amman shrine. She was standing in all her beauty and glory. She was kind enough to accept our other garland for her.
Tirunelveli Nelliappar temple is big, and I really mean it. There are atleast 10-15 kasi viswanathar shrines inside the main temple itself. Many numbers of Murugan and Ganesh shrines. Also it has the famous Thaamira Sabhai/Ambalam (Copper hall) where Natarajar performed his cosmic dance. The other shrines where Natarajar performed his dance.. a) Rathina Ambalam, Thiruvaalangadu b) Chitra (Painting) Ambalam, Courtallam c) Velli (Silver) Ambalam, Madurai Meenakshi Amman Temple and d) Pon (Gold) Ambalam at Thillai Nataraja Temple, Chidambaram.
By the time, we went through the temple, our legs pained like anything. Such big and spacious temple, but excellently built, with proper water drains, sufficient ventilation for air and light etc. In case of any disaster, the entire Tirunelveli town and safely come and stay inside the temple. Such big it is.!
Its already Wednesday, and MSK wanted to be in Chennai for next dawn. So we proceeded to Rameshwaram immediately. Most of them in Tirunelveli bus stand suggested the best option is to go Madurai and then travel to Rameshwaram, but google maps said its a long route. Just then we noted lot of buses plying between Tirunelveli-Tuticorin which is one hour travel and on the way to Rameshwaram. So we took a bus to Tuticorin and was there right on time when a Rameshwaram bus was leaving the bay. Successful transit, we are on our way to destination. Bus stopped at a motel, and I opted to skip my lunch. But Mr.MSK, had a full meals with fish-fry for side-dish.. Sinful soul.. :)
About 4.00pm, the bus crossed Paamban bridge and entered in Rameshwaram. We only had few hours left, so we decided to move to Dhanushkodi first and then return back to temple. We hired an auto who charged 300/- for 40+kms round-trip ride till Dhanushkodi. He first lead us to Kothandaraman temple. That was the place where Shri Ram performed Paattabishegam for Vibheeshanan, swearing him as the king of Lanka. Then we proceeded to Dhanushkodi beach.. Since the beach was fierce, bathing was restricted, but I had a quick dip near the shore.
It was around 7.00pm, we came back again to Rameswaram temple. We went to a nearby lodge to secure our luggage. The lodge owner said it was already late to have bath in all the 22 holy wells (theertham) inside the temple. He then instructed us to move fast to go to nearby beach (Agni Theertham), have a dip and then go inside the temple. The lane opposite the temple lead us to Agni Theertham. Well, it was not theertham, it was the beach without shore. It was already dark, no visibility after 2 feet of water and the vastness of the sea and the sound really scared me. Good that they had some rail support for us to catch when having a dip. Seriously saying, if at all we go a bit deep and slip in the water, no one will even notice where we are. Its was already dark and hence couldnt estimate how deep the water will be the next step. We went for a formality dip within the one feet of water and returned back immediately. A local guide asked us not to wear T-shirts when entering in the temple, and also asked 200/- for its already late and he can help us secure a bath in all 22 sacred wells inside the temple. 
But we didnt opt for his service. Bath tickets were open till then, and we went in for the normal way. Its 25/- per head ticket. We had no idea about the theertham or the wells, but just a North Indian family was going ahead of us for a bath in theertham and we had no issues following them. Well, the hidden fact is that there was a superb Rasagulla in that family and we were following it.. :) On the holy bath part, there are around 22 wells inside the temple itself, each has some significance like Ganga, Yamuna, Cauvery etc. Its believed that having a bath in respective well is equal to bathing in respective rivers. All the 22 wells, are placed around the first prakaram of the temple. So if one enters the temple, he can get a bath in all the 22 wells, which will itself be like going around the temple once and then proceed to the inner shrine for darshan. It was actually a very excellent idea devised in the past. In Isha Ashram, Coimbatore, one has to have a dip (not mandatory though) in the Suryakund (damn cold water) before entering the main Dhyanalinga Shrine. Sadhguru mentioned that a wet body is more receptive to cosmic powers in sanctum. That's the same idea here. All the holy wells are just inside the temple itself. So, just after a good bath, if you enter wet to the main shrine, your receptivity will be high. Unfortunately here, they have restricted entering the sanctum with wet cloth. We have to change ourselves dry and then enter.
Temple was not-crowded and almost free, so we had repeated and good Darshan of Ramanaatha Swamy. One other aspect of Rameshwaram is that it hosts one of the 12 Jyotir lingams. However, the main deity doesnt appear to be Jyotir lingam. Main deity is the one made by Sita and consecrated by Shri Ram for his worship after returning back from Sri Lanka after winning the war. (looks like Valmiki and Kambar Ramayana doesnt mention anything about this Shiva worship by Ram. Only in later versions of Ramayana by Thulasidasar, this was mentioned. Controversies:) ). Anyhow, a separate Jyothi lingam is also placed near the entrance itself. In Benares, the main deity is itself the Jyotir lingam and here, I felt its not given its due importance.
After a successful darshan, it was almost 9.00pm and time to leave. We had our dinner at duplicate Vasantha Bhavan and started our journey back to Madurai. Around 12 midnight, we reached Madurai and took a bus back to Chennai.
Travelling is always joyful for me, and that too travelling with a good friend and no-plans, even more interesting. We started with Rameshwaram in mind, but had been lucky to cover Srirangam, Thiruvaanaikkaval, Thenkasi and Nellaiappar on the way. Most importantly, all these temples are first-time visits for me. That made it even more special. Well, one thing I certainly need to mention about is the climate. All the three days, it was cool and pleasant, not raining, but drizzling at times. If it was hot, the travel would have been uncomfortable, but that was taken care by the nature. Two get-away from this trip for me is 1) Always travel in winter and 2) Visit temple either early morning or late evening for a peaceful Darshan.
So, here is the end of the blog. Many things cannot be stated in writing, they can only be experienced. It was in total, a wonderful experience for me during the three days of trip. Though most of the time was spent in bus, I still felt it worth the travel at end of the day. I once had a wish list of places to cover in Tamilnadu. I thought if I visit all places in the list, its done. But whatz really happening is the reverse - the more I travel, the more the list grows. Right now, the list is showing few big items and one very big item that I missed this year. Waiting to Witness what happens next..
Coverage Snaps - Taken with Mobile/Point-Shoot camera, so expect no clarity
